Category Archives: English

ODDA 7 - fausto 1

ODDA 7: Fausto Puglisi

ODDA 9 Giles Deacon-2

ODDA 9: Giles Deacon

Narcisse - Motion Issue

Narcisse 4: Dorothée Gilbert, Grace in Motion

NARCISSE MOTION ISSUE_FRANÇOIS DEMACHY_LILY TEMPLETON_HIGH-1 copie

Narcisse 4: François Demachy, Just a touch

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Antidote: The thin dark line of Yohji Yamamoto

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Artist Yuuka Asakura, who has been live-painting at the Yohji Yamamoto store on rue Cambon store over the past few days and whose contribution will be celebrated by a party on Saturday, was backstage after the Japanese designer’s show on Friday. “We were introduced by my professor in art university over five years ago. We had discussions around art, as he’d wanted to be an artist himself.”

It stands to reason that the line, that opening act on a white sheet, should be the start of his fall season. Certainly the long and lean proportions seemed to imply this, as did the sharp cut that bisected his invitation and the contrasting stitches that recalled his tailor tacking and which dressed simple sweater dresses. 

What followed was a procession of mostly monochrome looks which mined many of the designer’s tropes. While the designs appeared to be less theatrically voluminous, they were nonetheless intensely Yohji, bringing back echoes of his work, but delivered in a minimal way that felt more congruent with current contemporary tastes. It was perhaps not the masculine tailoring that he finds appealing on his women but that is “out of fashion,” he said after his show. 

From the silhouettes to the soundtrack – Yamamoto strumming his guitar – everything expressed quintessential Yohji, cut down to adhere to a necessary return to essentials. “Substraction,” as he offered when quizzed backstage. What remained were snapshots of moments: a flash of skin through garments not quite closed or cunningly cut, a fetishistic sexiness linked to sailors and high school kids, a “don’t care” attitude. 

The finale of black coats emblazoned with messages that felt like stream of consciousness, “16”, “Stop me before I f*ck again”, “Lord, I’m not happy here”, “I’ll be back soon”, “His word became no flesh” but hinted at typical teenaged angst, underscored by the melancholy strumming of the designer on the soundtrack. Certainly, it wasn’t the over sexiness or the crypto-sensuality that he’d mined before. The subtraction to reach this? The self-awareness that comes with unsubtly. And the collection was all the more seductive for it.

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Antidote: Acne raves beyond the sea

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Unless you’re a massive music buff, you’d be forgiven for not knowing The Cramps, the ‘80s Californian punk band who last played a decade ago and who counts Acne Studios creative director Jonny Johansson as a fan. A quick spin on Google revealed a flamboyant bravado and attitude in spades.

PVC bumsters and heels for all? Definitely, and you could find these peppered through the collection, when there were pants at all. Going out in your best underwear seems to be a thing and Johansson is definitely onto that. And yet if you’re not the kind of person who traipses around in pantless and fancy free, you definitely could count on the roomy coats in thick worsted wool or vinyl and ballooning trousers. Snaps were used instead of studs. For 2016’s neo-punk,

Wire cages outlined pockets and pulled the generous outerwear proportions in for something more congruent with the feminine form.

But imagine yourself a kid in Swedish seaside, all punked up and nowhere to go yet. Acne’s girl was definitely there, taking the materials at hand to craft a wardrobe for herself. That was one way of reading the security orange quilting that was cut into puffy jackets worn off the shoulders, the overalls and the giant buckles that looked like they could have been purloined off a crate. It felt like a continuation of his mountaineering of yesteryear. As for the footwear, that’s when things got a little fishier. There were heels featuring the A and S of Acne Studios in the band’s Crypt Tales-ish font, rope sandals, PVC bits, sandals looking like recycled flotsam, and flat-footed straight over-the-knee boots that ended up looking like weird waders.

It wasn’t the most straightforwardly desirable Acne offering, and Johansson has definitely pushed his boat out quite far in the conceptual this time. It took a while to warm up to it. But if the canvas waders were a bit too far in the shallows, those coats and the corded net bags with their lush leather interior definitely counted as the catch of the day.